条条大路通向勃艮第

香槟、罗讷河谷、波尔多、卢瓦尔河谷、汝拉、皮埃蒙特、托斯卡纳、里奥哈、雪莉、雅拉谷、西澳、中奥塔哥、马丁堡、香格里拉、宁夏……新老世界有那么多有趣又重要的葡萄酒产区,作为“樽赏灵魂酒徒系列”的第一本,开山之作,我们为什么选择了——勃艮第?
大部分原因在Wine Advocate 常驻勃艮第的权威酒评家William Kelley为我们写的序中都写到了,越了解勃艮第,越难以抵挡她的魅力。我们中极少数的幸运者如William,不仅在勃艮第工作,也在勃艮第享受生活。
我们自知不是最懂勃艮第的那一个,即使在中文世界里,也有许许多多早入行的前辈,或喝过无数勃艮第好酒的鉴赏家,我们只不过以多年传统媒体的训练,以一手采访和观察将我们眼中的勃艮第呈现出来,尝试在这个新媒体发达的时代,提供一种安静而轻松的阅读感受,以飨和我们一样不断深度探寻勃艮第魅力的读者。
William Kelley:条条大路都通向勃艮第
常言道:条条大路都通向勃艮第;此外,还有一种真实存在的现象:虽然很多葡萄酒鉴赏家从其他产区开始他们的葡萄酒之恋,但是随着时间流转,多数人终究会为勃艮第所吸引。再没有什么地方能够产出如勃艮第一般复杂又美妙的葡萄酒,且该产区的根本宗旨——没有两款酒的味道应该是一样的,而这种差异来源于造就它们的土地——已经成为世界上其他葡萄酒产区日益追求的典范。今时今日,从美国加州到法国波尔多,从澳洲巴罗萨到意大利皮埃蒙特,terroir(风土)这个词挂在每个人唇边,而terroir 始于勃艮第。
在这本书里,孙宵祎和谢立巧妙地传达了勃艮第丰富葡萄酒文化的精髓。她们引领我们踏上一场与勃艮第最有趣的酒农近距离接触的亲密之旅,通过对细节与个性的描绘,让我们得以更好地了解勃艮第。如果条条大路确实都通向勃艮第,阅读此书还会让我们明白,为什么几乎没有葡萄酒爱好者会在抵达目的地后转身离去:勃艮第有性格鲜明的人、浓郁丰盛而不失高雅的美食以及迷人的美景——所有的一切令人难以抗拒这个产区的魅力。这也是为什么,勃艮第不仅仅是我工作的地方,我更是把家也安在了这里。我衷心祝贺两位作者,她们成功地将勃艮第的真实魅力分享给了中国读者。

All roads lead to Burgundy, so the saying goes; and it’s certainly true that though many connoisseurs begin their love affair with the grapevine in other regions, most tend inexorably to gravitate towards Burgundy as the years pass. No other place produces wines at once so complex or so compelling, and the defining philosophy of the region—that no two wines should taste alike, and that it’s where they’re produced that makes the difference—has become the model by which other wine regions increasingly make sense of their own wines. Today, from California to Bordeaux, from Barossa to Piedmont, the word terroir is on everyone’s lips, and terroir began in Burgundy.

In this book, Fiona Sun and Isabel Xie ably communicate the essence of Burgundy’s rich wine culture. As they guide us on an intimate tour of some of the region’s most interesting producers, we better understand the region in all its detail and heterogeneity. And if all roads lead to Burgundy, we also come to understand why, having reached their destination, few wine lovers ever move on: the strong personalities, the rich and hearty yet elegantly rendered cuisine, the irresistible landscape—all conspire to make it hard to leave this captivating region. That is why I have made Burgundy not just my workplace but my home, and I congratulate the authors on their important work in sharing its true charms to a Chinese audience.

封面插画 / 陈洋

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